what to do in Granada

Overview

“There`s no doubt about it – Granada does enchant. The Alhambra palace-fortress, stretched along the top of the Sabika hill amid its sumptuous gardens, and the warren-like Albayzin, Granada`s old Islamic quarter, are highlights of any visit to Andalucia. There is no other city in Andalucia where the Islamic past feels so recent. Granada also possesses many impressive and historic post-Reconquista (Christian reconquest) buildings. Its setting, with the often snow clad Sierra Nevada as a backdrop is truly special.” The Lonely Planet Andalucia

Or as The Rough Guide to Spain puts it “If you see only one town in Spain it should be Granada”.

There is an infinite list of historic and cultural sites, great bars and restaurants, good shops and it’s a great size for just strolling around. It is known as one of the few places in the world where you can go skiing in the morning and to the beach in the afternoon. But perhaps most importantly of all, you get free tapas in the bars!

Some Granada highlights are:

The Alhambra, of course
The old moorish warren of the Albayzin
The Renaissance cathedral and the streets around
Free tapas or the bargain of a “menu del dia” in a traditional family restaurant
A flamenco performance

The Alhambra and the Generalife

“The Sabikah is Granada’s crown, and the Alhambra (may Allah protect her) is the ruby at the top of this crown.” Ibn Zamrak

The Alhambra is a world famous fortress and palaces complex perched above Granada on the Sabika hill. The oldest part, the Alcazaba, was built in the 11th century and the ornate Nasrid palaces in the 13th and 14th centuries. In 1492 the last Moorish king Boabdil surrendered Granada, and the cross and banners of the Reconquista, or Reconquest, were raised on the Alcazaba tower. The mosque was replaced with a church, the Convento de San Francisco was built (it is now a Parador hotel) and sometime later a large Renaissance palace, the Palacio de Carlos V was added. In the 18th and 19th centuries the Alhambra fell into decline but in 1870 it was declared a national monument and it now receives 6000 visitors a day – making it reputedly the most visited tourist site in the world.

Alhambra tickets

Tickets to the Alhambra and the Generalife Gardens are for a morning or afternoon slot. The Nasrid palaces have a specific timed half hour slot which is rigidly observed. Once inside, you can stay as long as you like.

Night tickets, for the Nasrid palaces only, are also available at certain times of year.

You can book your entrance tickets to the Alhambra in advance at www.alhambra-patronato.es or by phone on (00 34) 902 888 001 (both are in Spanish & English). Tickets can also be bought on the day, but unless you get there very early there is an obvious risk that all the tickets will be sold out, particularly at peak periods like Easter.

Alhambra tickets cost 10 euros for adults, 7 euros for EU pensioners over 65, and are free for children younger than 8 and for the disabled.

Granada Citypass (Bono Turistico de Granada)

Another option is to buy the good value Granada Citypass or Bono Turistico de Granada which provides access to:

the Alhambra and Generalife
the Cathedral and Capilla Real
the Monastry of San Jeronimo
the Monastry of la Cartuja
the Museum of Fine Arts
the Archaeological Museum
the Science Park
plus 9 bus tickets on city buses
and 1 bus ticket on the Granada tour bus.

Further details of the City Pass/bono can be found at www.granadatur.com. The bono itself can be purchased in advance at www.cajagranada.es for 26.50 euros under "entradas".

The Cathedral and Plaza Bib-Rambla

As the last significant area to survive under Moorish rule Granada became a symbol of the Reconquista after 1492. Work on the cathedral began in 1521 but did not finish until 1704, evolving during that time from an original Gothic layout to a Renaissance design. The main façade was designed by Alonso Cano, the Granada painter and sculptor. His San Pablo sculpture can also be found inside the cathedral.

Next to the cathedral is the Capilla Real (1521) which holds the tombs of the Catholic monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand.

South of the Capilla Real is the Alcaiceria. This was formerly the Muslim silk exchange but now holds a variety of tourist nick-nack shops. Through the Alcaiceria is Plaza Bib-Rambla, a perfect place for a coffee and a muse on the square’s long history – in its time it has been a site of jousts, bullfights and Inquisition burnings.

Cultural facilities

As well as having a rich historical legacy, Granada is commonly regarded as Andalucia’s cultural capital. It has a university, the third largest in Spain, founded by Charles V in 1531. The Centro Cultural Manuel de Falla holds regular classical concerts. There are 2 theatres, the Teatro Isabel La Catolica and the Teatro Alhambra. The Centro Jose Guerrero gallery has a permanent exhibition of this Granada artist’s work and a changing temporary exhibition. Throughout the year there are cultural festivals, best known of which is probably the International Music and Dance Festival in late June or early July. Of course, in Spain there are countless local fiestas and celebrations throughout the year. Semana Santa (Easter) and Corpus Christi (early June) are both big festivals in Granada.

Sacromonte and Flamenco

A short stroll from the flat to the Sacromonte (or sacred mountain) district provides the opportunity to see cave houses, flamenco venues and, by continuing along the valley above the river, a wild and beautiful valley surrounded by mountains.

Some sights in Sacromonte are:

The Abadia del Sacromonte or Sacromonte Abbey. It was built in the early 17th century and is an imposing pile on the side of the hill dominating the area. It also has a museum.

Sacromonte has traditionally been a gitano (or gypsy) area of Granada and The Centro de Interpretacion de Sacromonte has a brief to retain and encourage gitano culture. It has an ethnographic museum explaining cave dwelling life and demonstrating the traditional artisan crafts of the Sacromonte areas.

La Chumbera, or Centro Internacional de Estudios Gitanos, on Camino del Sacromonte (958 248140), is a great venue to see flamenco. The flamenco is authentic, normally starts comparatively early and the theatre has a glass back wall looking out over the Alhambra lit at night. It normally only costs 5 or 6 euros too!

Another good flamenco venue outside of Sacromonte is Corral del Carbon (off Calle Reyes Catolicos, tel 958 22 11 44). Shows are normally limited here to the summer season.

In addition, there are a number of bars in Sacromonte itself which are popular with tour groups (or at least, the tour operators). Additionally, some bars in the centre of Granada offer flamenco shows. The Tablao Flamenco beside the Mirador of San Cristobal, and Pena la Plateria (on Calle Careillos de San Agustin on the corner with Placeta de Toqueros) in the Albayzin are two local venues which seem very popular with groups.

Monasterio de la Cartuja

This Carthusian monastery was established in 1506 on the site of a battlefield between Moors and Christians, but building was not completed until the 18th century. The monastery is known for its ornate baroque sacristy and equally highly decorated altar and sacrarium. Every inch of the walls is covered throughout in ornate carvings of gold, marble and lavish painted stucco work.

Frederico Garcia Lorca

Frederico Garcia Lorca was born in Fuente Vaqueros, a village west of Granada. His famous plays include Blood Wedding and The House of Bernardo Alba. He also wrote poetry such as Lament for the Death of a Bull Fighter and other poems. Lorca was deeply interested in gypsy culture, was gay and had Republican sympathies. In 1936 he was assassinated in the village of Viznar by a group of Franco’s followers.

There are various Lorca sites to visit, specifically the Lorca museum situated in the house where Lorca was born, the Huerta de San Vicente in Calle Arabial which he stayed in as a child. This is now a rose garden, and in Viznar there is a memorial garden, with views of the mountains, dedicated to those who died in the Civil War.

Getting Around

Granada city centre is well served by public buses. Bus numbers 7 and F go frequently from the centre to the Mirador de San Cristobal, very near to Casa de las Granadas.

Small buses (numbers 30, 31 and 32) run every 3 or 4 minutes from Plaza Nueva up to the Alhambra and into the Albayzin. The nearest stop for Casa de las Granadas is at la Iglesia de San Salvador. (NB Work on the approach road to La Alhambra (Cuesta de Gomerez) means that these buses take an temporary (until Summer 2008) alternative route via Realejo.)

Bus number 34 – the best bus ride in the world! The 34 does an hourly scenic loop from Plaza Nueva via Barranco del Abogado, with views of the Sierra Nevada, past the Alhambra, along the Rio Darro, into and back out of Sacromonte, through the Albayzin and along Gran Via back to Plaza Nueva. The whole trip is an excellent orientation exercise, giving a feel for many parts of the city, and is an astonishing demonstration of the driver’s confidence and ability to get through the narrowest of gaps. It’s a bargain for only one euro.

Tourist Information and What's On

If you want any more ideas or information there is lots of helpful information on the Granada tourist information website. The English version of the site can be found at http://www.granada.org/turismo/Data/INGLES/fset2.html

Pocket Guia - has listings of what's on in Granada each month (in Spanish only) and you can buy it from kiosks around the city.

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Bars and Restaurants

Tapas and the Menu del Dia

Since the 19th century Andalusians reportedly protected their drinks from flies and dust with a “tapa”, or cover, of a slice of bread. This custom evolved into the tradition of tapas – or having a snack with each drink at the appropriate time of day. In Granada tapas is a thriving tradition and all the more welcome as the tapas is free – this is not usually the case in other parts of Spain. The tapa might be a small saucer of ham, cheese or tortilla with bread, or it might be a stew or some anchovies. Knowing which bars serve tapas is a bit of an art. You are most likely to get tapas in the run up to lunch – from about 1pm to 3pm, and again in the run up to dinner – from about 7:30 to 9pm. You will get a tapas with alcoholic drinks and refrescos (cokes, juices, water), but not with tea or coffee. You probably won’t get a tapas if you order food, such as a bocadillo, at the same time.

Larger plates of the same food is called a racion or media racion. These are best shared between groups of people, and can work out to be quite expensive for small numbers of people.

Be warned – in most bars you’ll have to have quite a few drinks to have the volume of a meal. Tapas are not really a substitute for a meal, unlike tapas bars in England.

When hunger hits, by far the best value option is the menu del dia. This is normally served at lunchtimes during the week and is made up of 3 courses : 2 equally- sized savoury dishes (such as paella, and lomo (or pork steak) with chips) and a dessert which is likely to be “flan” (crème caramel) or arroz con leche (rice pudding). A menu del dia includes bread and often a drink of wine, beer or water, and normally cost 7 to 9 euros. Quite a bargain. The menu del dia often will not be shown on “la carta”, or written a la carte menu: to ask for it, say : “Tiene un menu del dia?” A good guide is to look for busy lunchtime places, particularly where you see groups of workmen. Also look out for the “comedor” or dining room sign above a door in the bars. After a menu del dia the whole Spanish day makes much more sense. Lunch can take 2 hours and there’s little need for a big meal in the evening – so tapas come into their own. Que viva….

Another meal option peculiar to Spain is the platos combinados, a meat or fish dish, normally with chips and a fried egg. These are normally good value but not quite as large as a menu del dia and can be found in many bar/restaurants.

Good places for a menu del dia in the Albayzin and near to Casa de las Granadas are La “Entraiya” Casa Rafa at Calle Pages 15, Casa Torcuato on Calle Agua and Bar Aixa in Plaza Larga. Various bar/restaurants with outdoor dining can be found in Plaza Aliatar, near San Salvador, or on Plaza San Miguel Bajo, by following the small buses along below Mirador San Nicolas. We like El Ajo in the latter, which is slightly trendier than the average Granada bar.

A great, lively, traditional bar restaurant in the town centre which serves a substantial menu del dia is La Bodega on Calle Jardines off Calle Puentezuelas near Plaza Trinidad.

A good local bar with excellent home cooking and a large menu del dia is Bar Maria & Jesus, on Calle Buensuceso near Plaza Trinidad.

The best bars

Good streets packed with tapas bars are Calle Navas off Plaza del Carmen near Puerta Real, Calle Elvira and its side streets which runs parallel to Gran Via, and Paseo de los Tristes, the narrow street which runs beside the River Darro at the base of the Albayzin and has excellent views up to the Alhambra.

We also like the Lido bar which can be found on the narrow street in front of the cathedral (off Plaza de las Pasiegas). Their speciality tapas is salmorejo, a cold tomato soup, like a thick and extra garlicky gazpacho.

Another good bar and cafe with a large outdoor area in the town centre near Puerta Real is Cafe Futbol. It does tapas, icecream or "chocolate y churros" (a Granada institution of hot chocolate with deep fried donut strips. Try it once.) Cafe Futbol is on Plaza Mariana Pineda. There is also a tourist information office on this square.

Traditional bodegas

Some bars specialize in fine wines and are known as bodegas. Bodega Castaneda on Calle Almireceros just off Calle Elvira near Plaza Nueva is an atmospheric, traditional bar offering “tablas”, or boards, with assorted cheeses, meats and pates. They also offer local hot dishes, and extra tapas can be bought.

There is a slightly pricey upmarket bodega called Puerta del Carmen, in Plaza del Carmen opposite the townhall (recognisable as it has a blindfolded guy on a horse on the roof) and near the entrance to Calle Navas.

Bar “Las Titas” between Paseo del Salon and the River Genil, along from Puente Genil, is a nice stop for coffee or beer away from shopping in Corte Ingles.

Restaurants with Alhambra Views

Basic Spanish restaurants do great menu del dias, as described above, but for a special holiday treat or celebration we recommend going to one of the upmarket restaurants on the Albayzin hillside with great views of the Alhambra, particularly at night when it is floodlit. It is advisable to make an advance reservation and to ask for a table with a view.

The Mirador de Morayma on Calle Pianista Garcia Carrillo 2, (tel 958 228290), east of the Mirador of San Nicolas does an excellent tasting menu (“degustacion”) for 30 euros per person, and they will do a vegetarian version if ordered in advance. It has extremely pretty gardens.

Other good options in the Albayzin with fine Alhambra views are El Agua in Plaza del Aljibe de Trillo (tel 958 224356) and Luna Verde on Camino de San Nicolas 16 (tel 958 291794). Both are close to the Mirador San Nicolas.

Vegetarian Restaurants

A good, proper, vegetarian restaurant is Raices, slightly further out on Calle Pablo Picasso 30, in Barrio La Quinta, over the Puente Verde bridge.

In the city centre, there are two, related, Indian restaurants offering vegetarian options. The Mughlais are at Calle Casillas de Prats 6, off Plaza Garcia, and Calle Joaquin Costa, near Plaza Nueva.

Botanico, in Calle Malaga opposite the city botanical gardens, is trendy and has vegetarian options.

There are lots of pizzerias around the city centre: the ones tucked down side streets between Calle Elvira and Gran Via (eg Placeta Silleria), close to Hannegans Irish Bar, are slightly closer to the real thing.

FresCo on Gran Via opposite the Cathedral is an all-you-can-eat Italian pizza & pasta, ideal for a cheap blowout.

Gluten Free eating

Please ask if you have wheat or gluten allergies. We can recommend places to shop and eat out.

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Shopping

El Corte Ingles

Ask any Granadino “where do I get xxx”? and they will reply El Corte Ingles. The two Granada branches of this nationwide department store are in Acerro del Darro, near Puerta Real, and at the northern end of Calle Arabial, near the circunvalacion.

Clothes & Shoes

City centre shopping is concentrated around Calle Mesones and surrounding streets, and Calle Recogidas, where the likes of Zara and Mango can be found, offering goods at lower prices than in the UK.

Crafts & Handmade Guitars

Crafts and tourist memento shops abound in the Alcaiceria behind the Cathedral, in Calles Caldereria Nueva and Vieja, heading up the hill to the Albayzin from Calle Elvira, and around Plaza Nueva. Handmade guitars can be found in shops on Cuesta de Gomerez, on Plaza Realejo and on Calle Reyes Catolicos. Calle Santa Escolastica in Realejo also has some trendy nick-nack shops.

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